Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 4

 Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 4 - Painting the Horns & Spikes

Spiky bits all done!

The next step was to redo the dragon’s various horns and spikes. As ever, each successive layer leaves a little bit of the previous darker colour in order to create a gradation of colour from dark brown at the base of each spike then slightly yellow to bone white. 

 

The original horns…

And spikes

Here's what I did:

Stage 1. A base coat of GW Skrag Brown

Stage 2. A wash of GW Nuln Oil concentrating on the base of each horn & spike. This is meant to add a contrast between the base of the horn/spikes and the lighter tones to come.

Stage 3. A layer of a light ochre brown (Matisse Raw Sienna) leaving some of the darker areas from the last stage showing.
These next two stages move further to the horn/spike tips with progressively lighter shades. 

Stage 4. A layer of a warm yellow, in this case GW Averland Sunset.

Stage 5. I wanted to stay with the yellowish effect as the process of lightening the horn/spike tips continues. So, I went for a layer of Vallejo Tan Yellow.

Stage 6. Continuing the gradual lightening process: a layer of 50/50 Vallejo Tan Yellow & Matisse Naples yellow light

Stage 7. A layer of a bone white - Matisse Gum Tree 

Now for the final step in painting the horns and spikes: 
Stage 8. A final highlight of pure white

A better view of the back spikes

Green Dragon Part 1 - Green Scales 

Green Dragon Part 2 - Golden Scales

Green Dragon Part 3 - Leathery Skin

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Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 3

Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 3 - Painting Leathery Brown Legs

With the green and golden scales now complete, it’s onto the dragon’s legs and the 'fingers' of the wings. They look okay in the photos but in real life show some wear and tear. 

From this...

To this.

I um-ed and ah-ed about changing colour completely but in the end I think that the light brown tone go well with the colours of the scales.

Step 1. (Above) I applied a wash of 25% solution of Ecoline 245 ink, the same one I used on the golden scales. The aim being to give a consistent base colour.

Step 2. I’ve given everything a light coat of GW Golfrag Brown, leaving the deeper recesses as is. This is one of their dry-brush formulation but I didn’t let that stop me! 

Step 3. I used Derivan Skin Tone Mid to glaze the pure GW Golfrag Brown. As usual, I left some of the previous layer showing so that the highlights will build up.

Step 4. For this layer I used a 50/50 mix of Derivan Skin Tone Mid + Vallejo Tan Yellow. As ever, I cover less area with each highlight.

Step 5. Nearly there! This time a highlight with pure Vallejo Tan Yellow.

Step 6. The final highlight uses Derivan Desert stone which is basically a bone white on the claw wrinkles. 

Step 7. To finish off these leathery brown parts of the dragon, I washed over all of the areas using a 1 in 8 solution of Ecoline 245 ink. 

Before the final highlight...

And after the final highlight.

Step 8. As a bit of an afterthought, I decided to redo a highlight of Derivan Desert stone on the claw wrinkles.

All done!.

The links to the other Green Dragon posts are here:

Green Dragon Part 1 - Green Scales 

Green Dragon Part 2 - Golden Scales

Green Dragon Part 4 - Horns & Spikes

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On The Go

Dragon of Melnibone - Horns and Spikes

Part 5

Now for the final step in painting the horns and spikes: 

Stage 8. A final highlight of pure white

Part 4

I want to stay with the yellowish effect as the process of lightening the horn/spike tips continues.

Stage 6. A layer of 50/50 Vallejo Tan Yellow & Matisse Naples yellow light

Stage 7. A layer of an bone white - Matisse Gum Tree

Part 3

These next two stages move further to the horn/spike tips with progressively lighter shades. 

Stage 4. A layer of GW Averland Sunset 

Stage 5. Now, a layer of Vallejo Tan Yellow 

Part 2

After some Nuln Oil on the base of the spikes

Stage 2. A wash of GW Nuln Oil concentrating on the base of each horn & spike. This is meant to add a contrast between the base of the horn/spikes and the lighter tones to come.

Now, a layer of raw sienna

Stage 3. A layer of a light ochre brown (Matisse Raw Sienna) leaving some of the darker areas from the last stage showing.

Part 1

The original horns… 

And spikes

The next step is to redo the dragon’s various horns and spikes. As ever, each successive layer leaves a little bit of the previous darker colour in order to create a gradation of colour from dark brown at the base of each spike then slightly yellow to bone white.

Stage 1. A base coat of GW Skrag Brown

Doughty Dwarfs 

Part 6

The mighty Honour Guard. 

More Marauder / Citadel figures.

Doughty Dwarfs 

Part 5

The Landwasters. Greybeards from Marauder / Citadel.

Doughty Dwarfs 

Part 4

Slayers of the Marauder / Citadel persuasion

Doughty Dwarfs 

Part 3

Some more Old Skool Harlequin slayer dwarfs.

Doughty Dwarfs 

Part 2

Some more Woad Warriors. These guys are vintage Harlequin Miniatures figures designed by Kev Adams in around 1994.

Doughty Dwarfs 

Part 1

The Dwarves are coming! Slightly retouched and finally photographed, the Dwarven army is on its way.

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