Monday, June 15, 2026

On The Go

Dragon of Melnibone - The Wings

Head here to explore my other Green Dragon of Melnibone posts:
Green Dragon Part 1 - Green Scales

The Wings Part 4

The photographs in this next section show the progression of the highlights of the raised areas of the wings. For each of these stages I started with the same 60/40 Matisse Permanent Green Light / Matisse Alpine Green mix from last photo to which I added progressively more GW Ogryn Camo.

Light / Mid green / Ogryn Camo highlight

A tad more Ogryn Camo

Ogryn Camo
Above: In fact in this photo, I used almost pure Ogryn Camo. To be honest, this was a step too far, the effect looks too patchy. So...
Tamiya Clear green
Above: Time to blend the highlighted areas back a bit. Here I used a wash of Tamiya X-25 Clear Green.

Sap Green Ink Wash
Above: I thought the wings needed to be a bit darker, so I washed them with a 25% solution of Liquitex Sap Green Permanent ink. You can also see on the centre section of the right wing where I trialed the next step.

The Wings Part 3

In these steps I'm aiming to match the green of the wings with the green of the body scales.
Mid-dark green glaze
Above: Mid-dark green glaze with Matisse Background - Forest Green

Mid green glaze

Above: Mid green glaze with Matisse Alpine Green

Light green glaze

Above: Light green glaze with Matisse Permanent Green Light

60/40 Mid / Light green glaz

Above: I’m happy that the wings now match the body in tone, so now I want to add highlights to the distinctive raised areas of the wings. I used a 60/40 Matisse Permanent Green Light / Matisse Alpine Green.

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The Wings Part 2

This is simply painting the base coat of dark green (GW Caliban Green) followed by a wash of Nuln Oil to darken everything.

Caliban Green basecoat

I particularly want to make a shadow in the borders between the wings and the ‘fingers’. Hopefully this step will cover up any little mistakes in these areas.

Nuln Oil wash

The Wings Part 1

The original blue wings

The original blue wings certainly made for a striking contrast with the green body scales but they just didn’t tie it all together for me. So, it’s onto the last major painting step: green wings. I want the wings to have a base tone that matches the green scales but to then make the wings look a little more leathery.

Stage 1 A mid-grey base coat

Doughty Dwarfs

Part 6

The mighty Honour Guard.

More Marauder / Citadel figures.

Doughty Dwarfs

Part 5

The Landwasters. Greybeards from Marauder / Citadel.

Doughty Dwarfs

Part 4

Slayers of the Marauder / Citadel persuasion

Doughty Dwarfs

Part 3

Some more Old Skool Harlequin slayer dwarfs.

Doughty Dwarfs

Part 2

Some more Woad Warriors. These guys are vintage Harlequin Miniatures figures designed by Kev Adams in around 1994.

Doughty Dwarfs

Part 1

The Dwarves are coming! Slightly retouched and finally photographed, the Dwarven army is on its way.

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Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 5

Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 5 - Painting the Rider

Dyvim Storm before the upgrade

This set of photos follows the upgrading of the rider, Dyvim Slorm. He’s an add-on to the dragon. I can’t remember the manufacturer but he’s a horseman to which I added a “Broad Bladed” lance. The saddle and saddlecloth are made from Green Stuff.

I haven’t been overly inventive with this section of the process. I pretty much just kept to the original colours and pimped them up a bit. The main changes were changing his clothing to yellow to go with the dragon scales and to paint the detailing on helmet as red gems.

Dyvim Storm before the upgrade

What follows is a quick review of the steps I took for upgrading the rider. Descriptions of each step are below each photo.

I've changed his tunic from blue to yellow

Here I've begun highlighting the yellow on the tunic and the purple saddlecloth. I've also highlighted the leather gloves and saddle.

In this step I finished highlighting the leather gloves and saddle, the yellow tunic as well as the purple saddlecloth. I also gave the metal bits, both gold and steel, a wash with GW Nuln Oil before highlighting them.

A view from the other side.

Dyvim's head is the final step. I fixed up his face, made his hemet black and highlighted it with grey, added some red gems and worked on the top of helmet’s wings. I gave the gold an extra zhuzh. I’ve noticed in the photo that the yellow on the tunic hem needs a little fixing up, I’ll fix that up when I do the final touch-ups at the end of the project.

Green Dragon Part 1 - Green Scales

Green Dragon Part 2 - Golden Scales

Green Dragon Part 3 - Leathery Skin

Green Dragon Part 4 - Horns & Spikes

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Monday, June 1, 2026

Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 4

Green Dragon of Melnibone Part 4 - Painting the Horns & Spikes

Spiky bits all done!

The next step was to redo the dragon’s various horns and spikes. As ever, each successive layer leaves a little bit of the previous darker colour in order to create a gradation of colour from dark brown at the base of each spike then slightly yellow to bone white.

The original horns…

And spikes

Here's what I did:

Stage 1. A base coat of GW Skrag Brown

Stage 2. A wash of GW Nuln Oil concentrating on the base of each horn & spike. This is meant to add a contrast between the base of the horn/spikes and the lighter tones to come.

Stage 3. A layer of a light ochre brown (Matisse Raw Sienna) leaving some of the darker areas from the last stage showing.
These next two stages move further to the horn/spike tips with progressively lighter shades.

Stage 4. A layer of a warm yellow, in this case GW Averland Sunset.

Stage 5. I wanted to stay with the yellowish effect as the process of lightening the horn/spike tips continues. So, I went for a layer of Vallejo Tan Yellow.

Stage 6. Continuing the gradual lightening process: a layer of 50/50 Vallejo Tan Yellow & Matisse Naples yellow light